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My AA Report 2011

Category : News, Reviews, Work

The Grove describes itself as ‘London’s cosmopolitan country estate’, and it lives up to the billing. It is within the M25 for a start, so an easy hop to central London, and a refurbishment in 2004 led to a serious contemporary makeover. As for the country estate bit, well, it stands in 300 acres of beautiful grounds, including a championship golf course. The 18th-century house fits the bill, too, being grand enough to carry the ambitions of the management. The former stables have been converted into a relaxed brasserie-style restaurant, while the fine dining action takes place in Colette’s, with its comfortably modern furnishings and funky wooden art on the walls. Head chef Russell Bateman produces classy modern European food with a high level of technique and an eye for appealing presentations. Snail lasagne with celeriac cream makes for a refined starter, while main-course partridge comes with sweetcorn purée, shallots, sprouts and a sticky bacon jus. The flair for balancing flavours continues at dessert stage with a luscious chocolate and chestnut fondant ably supported by coffee ice cream. Service is appropriately professional but there is nothing stuffy about Colette’s. – 3 Rosettes