Colette’s Review in Good Food Guide 2012

Category : Main, News, Reviews, Work

The Grove, Colette’s
Star-struck venue with eye popping food
Chandler’s Cross, WD3 4TG
Tel no: (01923) 807807


Modern British | £65
Cooking score: 5

These days, the sleek, glossy Grove is synonymous with a certain sort of stardom, and there may be gasps of ‘OMG!’ given the celebrity count here – it’s a home-from-home for football’s moneyed aristocracy, after all. As the hotel’s flagship restaurant, Colette’s puts on a suitably ostentatious show, with a ‘sexy’ bar area, huge canvases and abstract sculptures in the dining room. Prices are pitched at premiership WAGs rather than fans on the terraces, and the supremely confident kitchen aims to dazzle. To start, soft, fleshy Brixham crab contrasts with a squid ink-blackened langoustine, avocado and droplets ot tomato and cucumber coulis, while scallops might be paired with peanut puree, radish and lime. After that, Lincolnshire pork is subjected to similarly creative treatment – the belly meat laid over a slice of pickled pineapple, and its lusty cheek arriving separately atop a ragout of Cornish lobster with borlotti beans and sweet cicely. As for dessert, Yorkshire rhubarb perked up with Amalfi lemon cream and meringues hits the mark – or your might fancy a clever chocolate confection in a glass. Jokes abound from the bread rolls delivered in a canvas bag to the kooky ‘sweet shop’ petits fours. The astonishing cheese trolley gets rave reviews, service goes the extra mile, and the wine list promises good drinking from the lesser-known regions; prices start at £27.

Chef: Russell Bateman.
Open: Tue to Sat D 7 to 9.30
Closed: Sun (except bank holidays), Mon.
Meals: Set D £65. Tasting Menu £80 (7 Courses)
Service: not inc.
Details: Cards accepted. 40 seats. Air-con. Separate bar. No mobile phones. Wheelchair access. Music. Car parking.
Taken from Good Food Guide 2012