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Colette’s Review in Good Food Guide 2013

Category : Main, Reviews

The Grove, Colette’s
Bag’s of impact and Artistry
Chandler’s Cross, WD3 4TG
Tel no: (01923) 296015

http://www.colettesrestaurant.co.uk

Modern British | £65
Cooking score: 5

Now infamous as a playground for footballers and their wives, the sprawling Grove complex started life as an ‘out of town’ bolt-hold for the Earls of Clarendon. The old aristocracy wouldn’t recognise the place now, especially if they stumbled into Colette’s – a bespoke restaurant emblazoned with huge canvases, sculptures and fantastical chandeliers.

It may be OTT, but supporters reckon that chef Russell Bateman is at the ‘top of his game’ delivering highly complex ideas with bags of impact and atistry. He is also fleshing out his network of dedicated suppliers and plundering the Grove’s walled garden for seasonal pickings – how about a pretty plate of poached and roasted lobster with heirloom carrots, purple potato, funnel and star anise, or ‘eight-spice’ squab pigeon with turnip, rocket and honey from the estate? Elsewhere, organic pork gets the jerk treatment with pineapple coconut and coriander, and Cumbrian rose veal appears as a tartare with brioche, winter truffles, mustard and quail’s egg yolk. Finally, the kitchen puts on its party hat for desserts such as rose and pistachio meringue with rhubarb and rose scented creme anglaise.

The comprehensive wine list deserves a cheer for its commitment to small ‘handmade’ produces and organic/biodynamic names, although it’s bedevilled by premiership prices. House selections start at £27 (£7.50 a glass)

Chef: Russell Bateman.
Open: Tue to Sat D 6.30 to 100
Closed: Sun and Mon.
Meals: Set D £65. Tasting Menu £80 (7 Courses)
Service: not inc.
Details: 42 seats. Separate bar.  Wheelchair access. Music. Car parking. Children over 12 yrs only
Taken from Good Food Guide 2013