Colette’s Review in Good Food Guide 2014

Category : Chef, News, Reviews, Work

Colettes Restaurant in the Good Food Guide
The Grove, Colette’s
Ingredients-led passion in a Georgian Mansion
Chandler’s Cross, WD3 4TG
Tel no: (01923) 296010
Modern British | £75
Cooking score: 6

A fetching Georgian mansion overlooking a bit of Hertfordshire known as Charlotte’s Vale, the Grange [sic] provides the settings and the amenities (including an organic walled garden) for Russell Bateman’s wide-ranging fixed-price menus of British Cooking.

Batemans’s passion radiates out from both the master classes he gives and his culinary repertoire. It’s the kind of food that’s focused on the quality of its component parts, rather than cheffy fussiness, though there’s no lack of innovation on display. Poached Fowey oysters served with an oyster mushroom and foie gras in mushroom broth, has proved a hit with reporters, as has the relatively simple but sublime main course of Cotswold white chicken with cauliflower, Vacherin and truffle in poultry jus. Fish from the South West or Scotland is top-notch – perhaps brill with seaweed, sea kale, pickled clams and salsify – and desserts such as blood-orange tart with cardamom ice cream end things on a flourish. Intermediate courses, breads and cheeses all add lustre, as does the list of superb if expensive wines. Glasses start at £7.50, bottles £27.

Chef: Russell Bateman.
Open: Tue to Sat D 6.30 to 9.30
Closed: Sun and Mon.
Meals: Set D £65. Tasting Menu £85 (7 Courses)
Service: not inc.
Details: 42 seats. Separate bar.  Wheelchair access. Car parking. Children over 12 yrs only
Taken from Good Food Guide 2014

In everyday life a 6/10 score might seem mediocre, this is certainly not the case with The Good Food Guide. They only include the best restaurants in their guide, and even then will only score the best of those. In this years guide, only 34 restaurants scored above 6 which I hope qualifies why my team and I are so excited by the result.

1 – Capable cooking, with simple food combinations and clear flavours, but some inconsistencies.
2 – Decent cooking, displaying good basic technical skills and interesting combinations and flavours. Occasional inconsistencies.
3 – Good cooking, showing sound technical skills and using quality ingredients.
4 – Dedicated, focused approach to cooking; good classical skills and high-quality ingredients.
5 – Exact cooking techniques and a degree of ambition; showing balance and depth of flavour in dishes, while using quality ingredients.
6 – Exemplary cooking skills, innovative ideas, impeccable ingredients and an element of excitement.
7 – High level of ambition and individuality, attention to the smallest detail, accurate and vibrant dishes.
8 – A kitchen cooking close to or at the top of its game – highly individual, showing faultless technique and impressive artistry in dishes that are perfectly balanced for flavour, combination and texture. There is little room for disappointment here.
9 – This mark is for cooking that has reached a pinnacle of achievement, making it a hugely memorable experience for the diner.
10 – It is extremely rare that a restaurant can achieve perfect dishes on a consistent basis.